This step-by-step photographic tutorial appears here as a supplement to the booklet, which is more detailed and exhaustive.

Prepare the fabric and the pieces by following the steps 1, 2 and 3 in the booklet.

Step 4

Prepare the patch pockets and fix them to the front pieces of the jacket. Adjust their placement at the very end if necessary.

Step 5

Preform the bottom hem of the two front pieces. Then place the lapels on top of the font pieces right sides together, unfolding the bottom hem and folding 1cm (0.4”) of the lapels from the outer edges to the wrong side (at the hem). Pin.

Stitch the entire way along that edge, starting the seam at the notch, and continue the seamline at the bottom of the lapel, parallelly with the bottom edge. Make sure to equalize the seams at the bottom on both sides of the jacket and trim the corners diagonally..

Step 6

Place the two pieces of the back right sides together and fold the two edges of the center back to the wrong side of the left piece. Place the edge of these two layers 1 to 2mm (0.04” to 0.08”) before the center back notch.
Press, pin and topstitch at 1mm (0.04”) from the edge to hold them together.Then fold again these two layers to the wrong side of the left piece and press. Topstitch at 1mm (0.04”) on both sides.

Step 7

Sew the shoulder seams in the same way as in step 6, folding the two layers to the wrong side of the back.

Step 8

Step 8.1

Sew the collars right sides together along the 3 outer sides, stitching at 1cm (0.4”).

Trim the corners diagonally to prevent bulk and turn inside out. Press and form two symmetrical points. Topstitch at 9mm (0.35”) from the edge.

Step 8.2

Fold the outer edges of the lapels to the wrong side, at 1cm (0.4”). Then insert the collar as close to the seams as possible.
Pin the collar to the shirt matching up the center back marks.

Continue the previously stitched seamline and stop at 1,5mm (0.06”) from the opposite edge of the lapel. Trim the excess fabric of the lapels (B). Cut a 30° slit through all the layers, as close to the seam as possible without cutting the stitch.  

Attach the under collar to the right side of the back piece along the neckline, and stitch at 1cm (0.4”) from the snip to the other end. Turn the lapels to the right side.

Topstitch along both edges of the lapel at 1mm (0.4”, pocket side) and 9mm (0.35”, outer edge). Then press the seam allowance towards the inside of the collar. Fold the edge of the upper collar over itself and keep it in place with topstitches or hand slip stitches. The collar is now attached!

Step 9.1

Pin right sides together the sleeve and the armhole, matching up the sleeve cap notch with the shoulder seam.Stitch all around. Finish the raw edge and press the seam allowance towards the front and back pieces of the jacket. Then topstitch on the right side at 1mm (3/64”) and 9mm (0.35”) from the assembling seam.

Step 9.2

Sew the sleeve and side seams in a single operation and in the same way as in step 6, folding the two layers to the wrong side of the back.

Step 10

Fix the preformed bottom hem by topstitching on the wrong side, at 1mm (0.04”) from the edge. Fold the hem of the sleeves to the wrong side at 1cm (0.4”). Press. Then make a second tuck at 7cm (2.76”). Press again and topstitch at 1mm (0.04”) from the edge.

Step 11

Mark the horizontal buttonholes on top of the front, sew them and fix the buttons.

And here it is! Don't hesitate to share it with us :)

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