Step 4

Finish the raw edges on the pocket, except the top one. Fold the top hem to the wrong side at 5mm and press. Make a second tuck at 2cm and press again. Topstitch the top hem to keep it in position. Fold the bottom hem at 1cm to the wrong side of the pocket. Press. Then fold both side edges at 1cm to the wrong side and press again.

Turn the pocket to the right side and pin it onto the left side of the front piece. Topstitch all the edges except the top one.

Step 5 — front and back sewing

Step 5.1

Now let’s attach the back yoke to the back piece. Place the two pieces right side together, pin and stitch. Finish the seam allowance and press it towards the back yoke. Press.

Topstitch on the right side along the fold at 1mm and at 8mm parallel to the seam stitched earlier.

Step 5.2

Sew the shoulder seams in the same way as in step 5.1.

Step 6 — prepare the sleeves

Step 6.1

Finish the inner edges of the under and upper sleeves.

Fold the under sleeve placket to the wrong side following the notch. Topstitch on the right side at 1mm from the fold.

Then place the two parts of the sleeve right sides together. Stitch and stop the seamline at exactly 1cm from the top edge of the placket.

Turn the under sleeve to the right side and fold the seam allowance onto the underside of the sleeve. Topstitch at 1mm starting the seam at the end of the slit and at 8mm from the assembling line. 
Continue topstitching at 1mm from the edge of the upper sleeve up to the bottom edge (without stitching the under sleeve) and stay stitch at the end of the slit opening.

Step 6.2

Baste or pin right sides together the sleeve and the armhole. Distribute the gathers and press to ease the excess fabric. Stitch all around.
Finish the raw edge and press the seam allowance towards the front and back pieces of the shirt. Then topstitch on the right side at 1mm and 8mm from the assembling seam.

This is what you get.

Step 6.3

Sew the sleeve and side seams in a single operation. Finish the seam allowances and press them towards the back piece.

Step 6.4

Fold the cuffs in half lengthways right sides together. Stitch at 1cm on both sides and trim the corners diagonally. Turn inside out and form sharp corners. Press.

Step 6.5

Now form two pleats on the bottom of the sleeve facing the slit, following the notches. Pin the right side of the cuff onto the wrong side of the bottom sleeve aligning all the edges. Stitch at 1cm. 

Then fold the other raw edge of the cuff over itself at 1cm to the right side of the sleeve.

Pin and topstitch along the cuff at 1mm.

Step 7

Fold the bottom hem to the wrong side at 1cm and press. Then make a second tuck at 1cm. Press again. 
Take the two front pieces of the shirt. Fold the fabric once to the wrong side following the first notch. Press to create a fold. Then fold a second time to the wrong side following the notch. Press.

Now unfold the button tab and the second tuck of the bottom hem to make a small snip at 1cm from the edge of the placket on the hem so that it can be folded in.

Unfold the bottom hem and fold the placket to the right side without unfolding the first pleat. Stitch at 1,5cm from the bottom edge along the fold of the second tuck-in.

Then fold back the placket and form a neat corner.

Then topstitch along the bottom hem on the wrong side, starting the seam at the edge of the placket to the other end.

Step 8

Step 8.1

Sew the collars right sides together along the 3 outer sides. Press and form two neat and symmetrical points. Topstitch at 1mm from the edge.

Step 8.2

Now you have to sew the collar in between the 2 pieces of collar stand, matching the center back notches. Pin and attach all 4 layers by the sides and the upper edge. Stitch at 1cm.

Trim the corners diagonally. Turn over onto the right side and form neat corners. Press carefully.

Step 8.3

Pin the collar to the neckline: right side of the collar stand onto the right side of the shirt, matching up the center marks. Stitch at 1cm.
Then press the seam allowance towards the inside of the collar and fold over the second piece of collar stand. Pin.

Topstitch all along the collar stand at 1mm from the right side.

Step 9

The buttonholes on the shirt placket are vertical, except for the cuffs and collar stand which are done horizontally. Here the position of the buttons has been adjusted to the length of the shirt.

Sew the buttonholes. Proceed the same way for the cuffs.

And here it is! Don't hesitate to share it with us :)
#otto_lespetitestailleuses